KEANU REEVES, E. ALEXANDER POWELL  &  THE VISITING WRITER IN JUNE : THE UNDYING CHARMS OF BAKHTAPUR CITY ( Part 2 )


I'm lost for words when I step in to the 'living' ancient splendor of Bakhtapur City, another spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kathmandu, Nepal on the 6th June 2014. It's really like a blast from the past coming alive right in front of your eyes, as if I'm at an exotic filming location and a surreal land. Feels like a whole new world to me, all of a sudden looking at life through a different lens. There's a steady stream of crowds littering the city, but Bakhtapur is so regal and distinct on its own that it truly emanates the aura that it is unperturbed by time.... I'm glad that I could immerse myself with such a timeless realm.

No wonder this-out-of-this world city is considered as one of the world's top heritage sites. My heart there and then decides that this intriguing and unique city shall be the perfect ending venue for my next book, the title is either "The Return Of The Enlightened Twin" or "An Evening In Bakhtaphur". The Malay version would be known as "Kembar Yang Tertulis".


Bakhtapur can be translated as The City of Devotees. It is also known as Bhadgowan or Khwopa. Bakhtapur is also famed for its mask dances, dances relating to the lives of the deities, henceforth it is also known as Khwopa. Khwopa refers to the masks that are worn by gods and goddess. There's a thriving community of pottery makers and hands craftsmen, among others, in this living heritage city. Bakhtapur was honored by UNESCO with "The First Honorable Mention" for the Asia-Pacific region back in 1998/99 for the recognition of the great preservation efforts of this cultural city. It is interesting to note that Germans landed aid to restore Bakhtaphur's Durbar Square. Among others, the Germans helped developed the sewerage system for this pigeon shaped city.

Bakhtapur is famed for its Golden Gate (Lu Dhowka), the impressive Palace of Fifty-five Windows, the statue of King Bhupatindra Malla, the awesome Peacock Window craftsmanship, and Nyatapola Temple among others. At a glance, Bakhtaphur's Durbar Square seems to have some resemblances to the Durbar Square of Kathmandu. Durbar Square in Nepal basically refers to the areas and structures surrounding the old royal palace. Both Durbar Squares are appealing in different ways.

Prior to its unification, Nepal was once consisted of small kingdoms. Durbar Squares are the significant remnants of the old kingdoms in Nepal. There are 3 famous Durbar Square in Kathmandu Valley : Kathmandu Durbar Square, Bhaktaphur Durbar Square and Patan Durbar Square. These three Durbar Squares are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.


Since time immemorial, Bakhtapur laid on the main caravan trade route between Tibet and India. As such, it was a wealthy and prosperous city. The city is 1,401 meters above the sea level. Once upon a time, Bakhtapur was the capital of Nepal during the reign of the Malla Kingdom. As of now, Bakhtapur is the third largest city in the Kathmandu Valley. The city of Bakhtapur was also featured in Little Buddha movie directed by an Italian director, Bernardo Bertolucci. Keanu Reeves, Beirut born actor, starred in this movie, playing the role of Prince Siddartha Gauthama (Buddha).

Edward Alexander Powell was the New York born author of The Last Home of Mystery, published in 1929. Before embarking on a stint as an adventurer cum traveler, Powell used to be a war correspondent during World War 1 and an advertising manager for Smith Typewriter Company in London. The Last Home of Mystery was about an adventure in Nepal, among others.



I truly agree with E.Alexander Powell's quote:

'Were there nothing else in Nepal, save the Durbar Square of Bhaktapur (Bhatgoan), it would still be amply worth making a journey halfway round the globe to see'.

An English historian, archeologist and art critic known as Percy Brown, stated that the Golden Gate of Bakhtaphur as "the most lovely piece of art in the whole Kingdom; it is placed like a jewel, flashing innumerable facets in the handsome setting of its surroundings."

Three days after returning to my home from my trip to Nepal, I had a vivid and strange dream. In my dream, I was strolling at the foot of a mountain range. There must be a village nearby as I recalled seeing a grazing field. Not a soul was in sight at first, just me and the mountains. Out of nowhere, I heard a clearly audible echo of a lovely soul rousing lullaby sung passionately by a mountain lad. So heartily did he sing that it echoes into the entire mountain range, echoes into my soul as well. A rustling wind and a gentle breeze accompanied the passionate singing, truly like an epitome of a wind rhapsody....

In my life, I never had such a dream before, the song, so powerful that it lingers in my mind and it found its way to my heart. The way he sung was so out-of-this-world that it left me transfixed by such a trancing lullaby. Inexplicably, it brings great joy to my heart. When I was awaken, I started to sing, mimicking what I heard in the dream and I saved it as a recording. If I were a film maker, I would definitely feature that trancing song in my film. Sometimes, I hum the uplifting song and I really love it when, at times, gentle caressing breeze follow suits.



My visit to Bakhtaphur truly worth the experience, a great investment to my happiness bank. It is indeed another happy encounter on the 6th of June, a day in a year that I look forward to. It used to be my late father's birthday. He is no longer around, but I feel that from time to time he watches me from afar....

 I have these simple yet meaningful words below to say about Bakhtapur :


"It's like discovering a gem from within oneself........" Janeiro Star, a January born Author, Author of Rainchild & The River of Kings ).

THE HAPPY, RUGGED & CULTURALLY RICH KATHMANDU & AN ENCHANTING NAGARKOT (Part1: Day 1&2).

It's been my lifelong dream to go to Nepal, the land that hosts Mount Everest, Annapurna peak, the brave Gurkha soldiers and the Sherpas. The remarkable story of the pioneer climbers, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay conquered the tallest peak on earth is really awe inspiring to me. Ever since that historic climb in 1953, more than 4000 people have scaled the tallest peak on earth. From the pics I've seen, the Himalayan range looks regal and inviting. I want to fly by the great mountain peaks and capture it's spectacular beauty and regality.

I depart from  KLIA2 with my eldest son on Wednesday, 4th June 2014, boarding AirAsiaX Airbus A330-300. KLIA2, the new airport in white hue is massive and impressive. I would like to go with my partner, Hazimin, but he is still gradually recovering after being discharged from hospital due to intestine inflammation. The departure to KTM (Kathmandhu) is a historic moment in my life because I'm realizing my dream instead of day dreaming about it. It is even more so because I depart from a brand new airport.

After going to several travel agencies around KL and PJ, eventually there's a travel agency known as Delleven Travel Networks that offers a tour package to Nepal. This travel agency is situated nearby the Immigration Centre in Wangsa Maju, KL. Miss Nur Fariza Mazli who is generous with her smile is our travel consultant that arranges the booking for us. She does a good job.



It is a 5 hours journey from KUL to KTM. Nepal is basically 2 hrs 15 mins behind Malaysian time zone. I'm really excited and thankful by the time we safely landed at Tribhuvan International Airport. This airport in Kathmandhu is named after one of the Kings of Nepal, King Tribhuvan Bir Bikram Shah. It's a simple airport of a brownish brickly hue. Its simplicity is a bit awkward at first, but at the end of the day, I like it. For tourists from Malaysia, we have to pay USD 25 for visa upon arrival.

At Tribhuvan Airport, my son and I are greeted by Mr. Kanchan Pandey from Singi Travel & Tours. We are greeted warmly and garlands of fresh Marigold known as Mallah are placed on our neck. It's a wonderful experience to be welcome in such a way. I'm so glad that Mr. Kanchan is our tour guide. He is hospitable, informative and helpful. He speaks English well and takes really good care of us. A Kathmandu born Mr. Kanchan is a father of two who has been working as a tour guide for 24 years. Our tour car is Volkswagen Vento and our driver is indeed skillful.

The streets and the ambience of Kathmandhu somewhat makes me feel like I'm transported to some sort of a gypsy land and to some scenes in Hindustani movies some time ago. Strangely enough, in my mind, I feel as if reggae music is always on the background of this exotic city. It's truly an exciting adventure for a wanderlust like me. The streets are not meant for the faint hearted. There are many fast and furious motorbikes, and quite a number of Range Rovers and Land Rovers too. On the busy streets of Kathmandu, there are 'Tempo's, the Nepali version of the 'tuktuk.' It's basically a three wheeler public transport. There are cute taxis on the road too. The taxis are like the Perodua Kelisa cars in Malaysia. There are also many brick buildings around the city.

Kathmandhu is an intoxicating blend of simplicity, laid backness, scenic beauty, infused with artistic endeavors, endless hectic lanes and a fusion of old world kingdom. It is also a city that beams with happiness. Happiness is contagious indeed! I believe now that Nepal used to be one of the happiest nations on earth. Kathmandhu derives it's name from the word Kasta Mandap which literally means a wood covered shelter. According to our tour guide, Nepal used to be a famous destination for European backpackers back in the '60s and '70s.

We checked in to Hotel Himalaya in Lalitpur. It is a pleasant 4 star hotel with friendly staffs and nice gardens. The moment I step into our cozy room, I make way towards the window to catch sight of the Himalayan range. It's cloudy with no chance of Himalaya, but there's a panoramic vista of a hilly range. It's a peaceful sight. Our room faces the pool with a vista of the hills and a nice well kept garden. We enjoy our stay here.

At around 6 pm, we make our way to a place known as Thamel, a tourist district of Kathmandu where we have our dinner and also our first meal in Nepal. We dine at Anatolia, a halal restaurant. The restaurant has a better wifi connection compared to the hotel. Nepali food is surprisingly awesome! Thamel has many narrow streets with many tourist lodges, money changers and travel agencies. In Thamel there are many shops that sells assortment of things such as Khukuri or the Gurkha blade, gear camps for mountaineering, clothes, jewleries and many interesting handicrafts. Quite a number of shop owners can identify the origin of the tourists by listening to their accents.

Business retires when the night is young at Kathmandhu. By 8 p.m. Kathmandhu starts to become quiet. However, at times, depending on the crowds, when the crowds are more than usual, some shops vendors operate till 11 p.m. It is also interesting to note that Hari Raya Aidil Fitri and Hari Raya Aidil Adha are also listed as public holiday in Nepal. There are also several mosques in Kathmandhu. Kathmandhu is indeed a melting pot of diverse ethnicities and beliefs.

I discover that the sky lits up very early in Kathmandu. As early as 4 a.m. the sky has already lighten up. The very next day after we landed in Nepal, on June 5th, we go to Durbar Square in Kathmandhu. It is a UNESCO world heritage site. All this while, I've been seeing pics of this world heritage site from Matador Networks, and now I'm seeing it with my own eyes. Seeing is escalating! I'm very impressed with the architecture and craftsmanship of the palaces, temples and courtyards and how surprisingly good it looks as if it's not really affected by the passage of time. Hundreds of years has passed since its establishment.

There were two prevailing ruling dynasties in Nepal, the Malla Kings and the Shah Kings. From the period of 12th to the 18th century, the Malla dynasty was the ruler of Kathmandu Valley. The ruling of the Malla dynasty came to an end in 1769 when Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha invaded the valley, and henceforth Nepal came under the ruling of Shah dynasty. Durbar Square is a significant remnants of the ancient kingdom of Nepal.


By the time we reached the Durbar square, the heritage site is abuzz with a gathering to commemorate World Environment Day. World Environment Day happens to be that very day, 5 of June. Durbar Square is like the focal point of the city where events and festivities took place. There are  friendly school children with big smile greet us with Namaste! It's interesting to note that there are Tiger Balm ointments for sale placed on mats by the street sellers.

Another great thing that I experience at this exotic square is I got to see Kumari of Kathmandhu at Kumari Ghar (Kumari Chowk). The ten year old Kumari emerges from the intricately crafted wooden window of the third floor of Kumari Ghar for a short while. Photographing of Kumari is strictly not allowed. It's truly an amazing and an enriching experience when you read about an intriguing and interesting figure, and you got to see it yourself. Kumari is basically a living goddess who is deemed to be an incarnation of goddess Taleju. Taleju is the Nepalese name of Durga. The Kumari will be revered until she reaches puberty. Upon reaching puberty, the goddess Taleju is believed to leave the Kumari's body, and the Kumari will revert to ordinary being. Kumari in Nepal is chosen from the Buddhist's family.



We also step in to the historic Nasal Chowk, a courtyard with a stone platform at the centre of it where the coronation of kings used to take place. The last king crowned here was King Gyanendra. There's a corner within the courtyard where the kings used to be seated and there are photos of the kings of Nepal. Among others there are photos of the slain King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah, his son King Dipendra and the last king of Nepal, King Gyanendra. King Dipendra who was born on 27 June 1971, was the son of King Birendra who allegedly shot his own father, mother, brother and sister, among others, in a really tragic royal massacre back in 1 June 2001. The massacre took place at Narayanhity Royal Palace.

Our next stop on the tour itinerary is to another world heritage site known as Swayambhunath Stupa, located on top of a hill facing the Kathmandu valley. To get to the Stupa, there's a long stone stairway of 365 steps. There's a panoramic view for the eyes to feast along the way to the top that makes the climbing less tedious. This site overlooks the Kathmandu Valley. There are many colorful prayer flags adorned this holiest site for Buddhist in Nepal swaying according to the rhythm of the wind. Swayambhunath Stupa is also known as The Monkey Temple and it is revered by the Hindus as well.

It is believed that once upon a time, Kathmandu was a valley with an enormous lake and a lotus grew out of it. To make way for settlement, the water was later drained from the lake and the lotus grew into a hill and the flower became the Stupa. Emperor Asoka had visited this site many centuries ago. There's a monastery for the Dalais up here.


When we reach the top, we are greeted by the sight of a huge, round white dome with prayer wheels around it. The giant dome is the base of the Stupa. On top of it there's a cubic structure adorned with a golden spire. The cubical structure has Buddha's eyes painted on it. The devotees would make a clock wise round as many as they like around the Stupa while touching the wooden prayer wheels and citing prayers.





For lunch we head to another halal restaurant known as Hyderabad. We try out something we haven't sample before back home, fish Biryani. It's worth the try, it is an amazing dish! After the lunch, we are back on the road to a place known as Nagarkot, with a higher altitude than Kathmandhu. Kathmandu has the altitude of 1400 meters above sea level.

The journey to Nagarkot that has the altitude of 2195 meters above sea level is really a long, narrow winding road. It's indeed a journey full of suspense, it's a narrow lane with sharp corners and our driver need to press the horn from time to time all the way up to alert the oncoming drivers from the opposing end of the road. I'm imagining I'm ascending Shangri-La! In a way, Nagarkot is like a Shangri-La. It is a mountainous range with a captivating and inspiring beauty, with a peaceful and mystic ambiance.

We are going to check in to a hotel known as Country Villa. On the way to Country Villa, we come across a hotel with a really catchy name, The Hotel At The End Of The Universe. Wow, I couldn't help from remembering the cult sci-fi work 'The Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy' by Douglas Adams, The Restaurant at the End of the Universe. I'm excited and thankful that I've been given the opportunity to come to a very scenic country with the tallest peak on earth.

When we reach Country Villa Hotel, we are served with a refreshing Nepali tea at the lobby. Later on, a sturdy porter carries our luggages on his shoulders to our room. The exterior deco of the hotel that leads to our room somewhat reminds me of The Great Wall of China. Our room overlooks the mountains. Unfortunately, it is still cloudy that the Himalayan range is veiled, but the mountain view around here is splendid. I keep wishing I get to see the Himalayas.







We have dinner at the hotel's cafe with a superb view of a hilly range coupled with the caressing cold air of the nature's rain maker, the mountains. The clouds here seems as if it is really within reach. I really take my time enjoying this golden moments. While we are dining, there are a bunch of young chefs in white ensembles grilling chicken with a very aromatic smell. Some of them speak in Malay. A friendly man with a camera slings on his shoulder known as Fadhli greets us, and henceforth I get to know about the story of the zesty young chefs from Singapore.

There are from Delta Senior School in Singapore. This school is a special school catering to special needs students. Mr. Fadhli comes here with his wife Okid Zaridah and his eldest son is one of the students at this school. The students are accompanied by six teachers. Coincidently, my eldest son enrolled in a special program too, as he has a mild learning disorder like their son. It's really nice to meet this friendly couple. It's indeed a great and plausible effort on behalf of the school to provide exposure and training for special needs students to prepare them for working life. Prior to the visit to Nepal, the students have been to Melbourne, Australia.

That very evening, our tour guide receives a good news from his wife, Mandira, that his brother in law who is working in a bank is promoted and a party might be coming soon. My son is thrill to have a meal with a great view of the mountains. He says he loves this place. It's a happy and memorable late evening gathering amidst the mountainous background. Great chance like this really doesn't come often. I also learn a formal way of saying good night from our tour guide : Suva Ratri.

The very next day, Friday, the 6 June, I wake up really early, at 3 a.m. 6 June used to be my late father's birthday. Though there's a water heater in my room, I decide to soak in the refreshing cold mountain water instead. After the first prayer of the day and some prayers for my late father's soul, I have my solitary moments at the balcony of the room that faces the mountains. The balcony is not accessible directly from my room. I have to go out from the room and open a glass door nearby.

There are many pigeons perching and cooing on the balcony that faces the scenic mountain range that is enveloped by the morning mists. I make a happy wish lists on my late father's birthday while watching a lovely sunrise. Due to circumstances, I miss my dad's presence for the most part of my life. Once, he told me to make a happy wish lists, and he said he would blessed it.

Among others, I wish for the strength and ideas to write another book, the oppurtunity to travel across the globe and to fly by the Sagarmatha. In Nepal, Mount Everest is known as Sagarmatha. Sagarmatha is translated into several meanings such as the 'Head of the Earth Touching Heaven' and also 'Mother of the Universe'. Mount Everest is known as Chomolungma (Goddess Mother of the Universe) in Sherpa's language. The Tibetans calls it as Quomolungma. Before I head back home on June 7, at least I want to catch a glimpse of the snow covered Himalayas.

Right after I make my happy wish lists, without warning, drops of rain pours down. It's a light shower at first, but it gets heavier and heavier that I have to use an umbrella to get to the cafe. In such a rainy atmosphere, I couldn't help from remembering my book, Rainchild. Once I reach the cafe, I take this oppurtunity to sip the refreshing Nepalese tea. By then the rain comes to an abrupt end. I feel rather sad to leave Nagarkot. I enjoy being near the mountains. I meet Fadhli again and his enthusiastic wife Okid Zaridah before I head to Bakhtaphur City, where I'm in for another awesome mind boggling adventure in the month of June.