CALL OF THE MOUNTAINS, VOLKSWAGEN & POSTCARDS FROM POKHARA
As winter sets in, I make my comeback to Nepal on Dec 24 2014. It is my first ever brush with winter. I embark on a second trip to Nepal with my partner, Hazimin, (the 1st trip to Nepal for him) boarding AirAsiaX flight D 1792 to Kathmandu. I can't wait to be back to Kathmandu Elevation after my maiden trip in June 2014. This time around, I set my foot to Pokhara, the Switzerland of Asia.
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| Morning view of Annapurna range from Sarangkot, Pokhara |
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| Sunrise from Shambala Hotel, Kathmandu |
I finally get my wish to go with Hazimin, but there's a turn of unexpected things. We contracted severe diarrhea and have to be warded just four days before our flight. I had just finished a marathon exam in Institut Terjemahan Buku Malaysia (ITBM) in Wangsa Maju on Dec 20. Never in my life I sit for seven papers at one go. Prior to the exam, I underwent twelve days of Intensive Translation Course and an intervening Endoscopy and colonoscopy sessions. A number of things going on back-to-back. Getting severe diarrhea just before traveling is such a big let-down, but such a predicament doesn't deter me from embarking on another journey... I'm just resilient.
Even though my doctor strictly advised me not to proceed with the trip, I'm very determined to do the mountain flight, eagerly looking forward to go to Pokhara, a lakeside resort town with a view of the mountains, close to the Annapurna range. Pokhara, nicknamed the Switzerland of Asia, is the gateway to the famous Annapurna trek. I want to go to Pokhara because I want to be as close as I can to Annapurna, there's a really intriguing story behind it.....
Sorry Dr. Dennis Khoo, I just have to defy your advice and got to go. Thank you very much dear doctor, for your generosity all this while, it is indeed priceless, and treasured. I bring along the medications prescribed. Honestly, I keep second guessing myself about the decision to go, even till moments before we step into the plane. The diarrhea attack is really bad, but I guess you got to be a daredevil at times in life. Logically, we shouldn't go but my spirit is so willing. I guess it is the "Call of the Mountains" that endowed me with the uncanny determination to go despite the illness. I tell Hazimin not to tag along as well, since I'm concerned about his health, but he is adamant that he doesn't want anything to hold him back. He wants to set foot in the landlocked mountainous region that I like.
Luckily during the December 2014 flight, I don't encounter "air pocket" turbulence like the one I experienced back in June, while hovering somewhere around India's airspace nearing the border of Nepal, that made me feel so dizzy, feels as if the plane is at a standstill. I feel that lady luck is somehow smiling on me since my stomach is behaving rather well on the plane, though from time to time there's excruciating pain, nausea and fatigue.
As long as I don't have to dash into the toilet, especially while thousands of feet afloat up high, that's good enough for me. I go to Nepal with a badly bruised right hand due to the inexpertise of vein pricking by the nurses. On flight D 1792 piloted by Captain Gilden, I get to know two Malay ladies known as Dell and Latifah. It is their first maiden trip to Nepal. I want to be more of a help to both of them, but we couldn't locate the ladies after filling up the arrival forms, lost track of them. There's an influx of tourists by the time we arrive in Tribhuvan Airport on Dec 24, unlike my arrival in June.
It feels so good to be back at the Kathmandu Elevation. Kathmandu is not a glitzy city with malls. It is a really unique and rugged city, beaming with the aura of spirituality, fun and peace.
At the airport we are greeted by Jay, a young intellectual looking Nepali, from Singi Travel and Tours. It is a rarity bumping into a Nepali wearing glasses. Prior to the meeting at the airport, we corresponded via emails about the tour. The tour guide that is assigned to us is unable to meet us at the airport on the day we arrived. We meet our tour guide, Mr. Raju Shakya, the next day. Jay suggests that we should try to go to Thamel for sight seeing on Christmas Eve. Since Hazimin is still not feeling so well, we just chill out in a Tibetan themed Shambala Hotel, a newly opened hotel. I'm not feeling so well either, but I feel more energized when I've landed in Kathmandu. I would like to thank Kanchan, my former tour guide, for helping out with the booking as well.
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| Me in my hotel room in Kathmandu |
From the window of my cozy room in Shambala Hotel, I get to see colorful prayer flags billowing in the wind amidst some residential houses. While resting in the room, I thank God for giving me the opportunity to travel. We just have biscuits, mineral water and medications since we are afraid of having to helplessly emptying our bowels again and again. Severe diarrhea can be very excruciating and debilitating.
There's a mind boggling story about Annapurna that prompted me to go to Nepal without a doubt. Somewhere in March 2014, I was busy finishing up my translation job, I was really worried that I couldn't meet the deadline, finishing the assignment was the most short term agenda in my life at that point of time. All of a sudden, out of nowhere only God knows why, an image of a snow capped mountain with a golden tip (awash by the rays of the sun) was sort of flashed into my mind vividly. In a jiffy, I heard a whisper of the word "Annapurna". What the heck is that???
Despite the looming deadline, I googled about Annapurna without much anticipation. I was beyond speechless when I found out that there is such thing such as Annapurna and that very intriguing moment prompted me to go to Nepal, no matter what. I guess that's the uncanny call of the mountains, the strange call of the Himalaya. Who knows it will be the call that change my life. I never heard of Annapurna prior to that incident.
Nepal has eight of the world's top ten tallest mountains. Eight of the mountains are above 8,000 meters. Hima means "snow" and Alaya means "abode". Himalaya means "The Snow Abode". The 10th highest mountain in the world is known as Annapurna I, at the height of 8,901meters above sea level. A French climber known as Maurice Herzog climbed its summit on 3 June 1950, and he wrote a book entitled Annapurna.
I would like to share two quotes on Annapurna by Maurice :
" There are other Annapurnas in the lives of men".
"Annapurna, to which we had gone empty handed, was a treasure on which we should live the rest of our days. With this realization we turn the page: a new life begins".
I really wish one day I can finally figure out the meaning behind the intriguing moment when my mind was so occupied with catching up with the translation deadline; out of nowhere the vivid image of a lovely snow capped mountain awash by the rays of sun and the mysterious whisper of Annapurna inexplicably come into my conscious mind. The uncanny call of the mountains....
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| Five tiered Pagoda in Bakhtapur |
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| Intricate carvings of palace windows |
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| Durbar Square of Kathmandu |
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| A glimpse of Swayambunath Stupa |
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| A peak from the long steep stairs of Swayambunath |
After the visit to Swayambunath, we go to the Durbar Square of Kathmandu. I'm thrilled that I get to see the revered Kumari of Kathmandu for the second time. Raju explains to me in quite detail about the selection of Kumari, and what happens after the child is no longer revered.
According to Raju, there's a street in Durbar Square known as Freak Street. As freaky as it sounds, it has an interesting history. Back in the '60s till late '70s, Freak Street was a popular spot the among the Hippies, especially from the European continent. At that point of time, there were many hashish shops around Freak Street and Hippies from all around the world flocked to the so called street in the southern part of the Durbar Square to look for marijuana, which was naturally available there. The hippies didn't just flock there for the supply of marijuana per se, they were attracted to the unique culture as well. The government of Nepal eventually banned the sale of hashish and marijuana, and the hippie era consequently died out.
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| Raju Shakya, ( the December tour guide ) and Hazimin in Nagarkot |
Raju is such a passionate storyteller. I enjoy listening to his stories, I can somewhat visualize the stories in my mind, "frame by frame." Among others, he narrates to me the legend of a king who sacrificed himself for the sake of rainfall, to end a drought spell. Raju seems to display interest in ethnic garments. I get to know about the distinct Newari saree and the Tibetan apron like apparel ( and the history behind it ) worn by married Tibetan women. Kathmandu born Raju of a Newari clan owns a sporty Honda motorbike. He used to guide Germans and Austrians to do trekking within the famous Annapurna circuit. Newari is the indigenous people of Nepal. Italian missionary priest known as Ippolito Desideri who came to Nepal in 1721 noted that the Newars ( Newari ) are the natives of Nepal.
At the Durbar Square, I get myself a singing bowl as a momento. It is believed that the vibration and sound emitted from the bowl can traditionally cure migraine. The atmosphere at the Durbar Square of Kathmandu is usually vibrant. It is abuzz with activities with many pigeons flocking around. This Durbar Square is indeed an urban focal point. We enter the Tribhuvan Museum for the first time and get to see interesting relics of the kings, such as the collections of guns. There's a coffin on display that was used to ship the remains of King Tribhuvan Bir Bikram Shah who died in Switzerland in 1955. Photography is not allowed in here.
Preserved in time with modest touch of modernity, Bakhtaphur is one of my favorite place to be. Apart from enjoying myself as a traveler, I love to assume the role of an avid archeologist, admiring the details of the structures that withstand centuries in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. I have interest in archeology ; my interest in archeology is one of the reason I love to visit World Heritage Sites. Back home, I enjoy going to Malacca, (the twin town of Lisbon) and Georgetown, both declared as World Heritage Sites.
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| The Nyatapola as seen from a cafe in Taumadhi square |
I have a December walking spree in Bakhtaphur City, taking the longest walking route with Raju Shakya leading the way. I'm the comeback tourist, back again after six months and 18 days. Hazimin tells Raju to take us on tour with the longest route since I love walking around. It is indeed one of the best gift a true friend can give me, walk with me. I simply love walking and sight seeing, it is like an elixir of life for me. The pace of a traveller is the pace that suits me best. Hazimin has a quiet determination flashing in his eyes from time to time with his gait. I wouldn't mind taking the shortest route out of concerned for his health, but he insists to take the longest route. Such determination to walk with me is indeed invaluable and much treasured. TQVM Amigo! There's a sweet girl around 10 to 11 years old that greets us cheerily and with such a warm heartfelt smile that makes me smile back heartily in Bakhtapur. I'm really happy and contented that I get to see more of Bakhtapur during this second visit.
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| The mountain goat on The Nyatapola |
While sipping coffee at the Taumadi Square, a beige colored mountain goat makes a sudden appearance on the nearby Nyatapola Temple, a five tiered pagoda which is the highest and oldest structure in Bakhtapur. The mountain goat sighting is cool, it is amazing to feast our eyes on a beige colored mountain goat on a centuries old five tiered pagoda while sipping coffee in the coldness of winter. Some passer bys climbing the steps try to get a close pic of the mountain goat, but the brazen goat kicks them off, and leisurely standing in the coldness with style. Way to go, Billy! The upcoming Chinese New Year happens to be the year of the goat, hopefully the goat sighting is a good sign... I wish I get more writing and translation project so that I can travel far and wide.
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| A walking Spree with Hazimin n Raju |
The Nyatapola was founded in 1702 by King Bhupatindra Malla. This special and sacred structure can only be entered by the king. It is such a well made structure that it withstand an earthquake strike in Nepal back in 1934. I climbed its steep stairs with chunky stone blocks back in June and get a nice picture of Taumadhi Square.
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| The Golden Gate of Bakhtaphur ( Lu Dhowka ) |
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| A fine ancient architecture in Bakhtaphur |
With a camera clutch in my hand, a brilliantly clear blue sky and the cold air from the mountains, I really feel that I'm truly in my element. An avid traveler who has a growing passion for photography. In my handbag, I carry a partially torn pic of me as a toddler and my mom. The other part of the torn pic is the pic of my late father, and I have no idea where it is. I simply bring it, I truly don't know why on earth I bring the pic to the land of spiritual abode. I just stash it into my wallet when I stumbled upon it while I was cleaning up my apartment.
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| A scenicc view from the terrace lawn of Fort Hotel, Nagarkot |
Nagarkot is a lovely place in Nepal that I love to go. Nagarkot means "City of Fort". As it turns out to be, this time around, I choose not to be driven all the way up the narrow winding road that leads to Nagarkot in the Volkswagen, but I unexpectedly walk with my tour guide, Raju Shakya, upon his impromptu suggestion, to overcome my nausea spell. Half way up the long narrow winding road, I'm overcome with nausea spell and the sickening urge to puke. To avoid puking in the car, I wrap my eyes with my checkered muffler and humming to the trancing song that I heard in my dream. When I feel that the urge is so bad, I tell Raju to ask the driver to let me out of the car for a while. That is when Raju suggests that I should walk with him, and it is going to be about 15 minutes walk. It is so pleasant to see the folks of Nagarkot up and about filling their leisure time by watering their flowers,lounging in the compound of their houses and school children passing by in droves.
While ascending Nagarkot unexpectedly on foot with a dizzy spell, Raju brings up the idea of trekking, since I love walking long distance. I like the idea of getting spectacular to die for views (of the mountains) and to have breakfast with Annapurna towering right in front of me. I like the idea so much, I'm considering to execute it in the future.
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| Himalayan range in the background |
At Fort Resort Hotel in Nagarkot, there's a terrace lawn facing the mountains with white tables and chairs for the patrons to lounge about. I take a seat on one of those white chair, there's are no other patrons at that time, and the moment I laid my eyes on the vista of the Himalayas, all my pain just dissipated. Previously, I didn't get to see much when I came during the start of a rainy season back in June. This time around, I get a much, much better view. An ever smiling hotel staff hands me a cup of Nepali tea infused with lemon. A mind boggling quote from Albert Einstein comes to my mind : A table, a chair, a bowl of fruit and a violin; what else does a man need to be happy?
This happy and lovely moment in Nagarkot is my Shangri-la. There are tables and chairs, and a cup with a lemon ring. I don't have a violin at that moment, but there's always a personalized internal channel of songs in my head. The scenic beauty of Nepal makes songs oozes ever so freely on my mind. My fidgety mind feels so at ease and I'm radiating with inner peace.
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| Watching Sunrise from Fort Hotel, Nagarkot |
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| My cottage room in Fort Hotel |
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| The breaking of dawn as seen from my cottage room |
Nagarkot is a great spot for viewing sunrise and sunset with the Himalayan range backdrop, and was once a fort of the Kathmandu Vallley. A panoramic vista of deeply entrenched valleys, lovely fields and pine forrest greet you all the way up... I like the view of the misty pine forest. There's a military training centre in Nagarkot, we get to see the soldiers in blue uniforms engage in physical training.
The very next day, we get to view the breaking of dawn from the highest point in Fort Resort Hotel. I get to see Country Villa Hotel, the previous hotel that I used to stay back in June 2014 with my eldest son, Mubin.
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| The vegetation around Fort Resort in Nagarkot |
Raju tells me that there's a French guy who keeps coming back to Nagarkot every few months, "like crazy". Yeah, I can understand why he loves coming back here time and again. He's so lucky to have the means to come back so often. I get to see this guy at the lobby of Fort Hotel while having my breakfast. I get myself a postcard of Langtang mountain range from the Fort Hotel's lobby before bidding adieu.
I have an unforgettable starry night in Nagarkot. The sky is seemingly emblazoned with stars. It is such a starry, starry night. I'm so immersed with the sky full of stars, the electrical power disruption doesn't bother me much. One thing for sure, I cherish the star gazing moments for the rest of my life. The stars as seen from Nagarkot seems somewhat near, not as distance the way it has always seems to me. I just make some wishes then. You never know your wish might come true.
The next item on the itinerary is the trip to Pokhara, the Switzerland of Asia. I have never been to Pokhara before. It's a seven hours drive from Nagarkot. En route to Pokhara, I come across Trisuli River. Trisuli river is a lengthy pretty river with pristine water. It's quite challenging to take pictures of Trisuli, the river that is famous for white water rafting while cruising on the Tribhuvan Highway, the highway on the edge of the mountains, with many seemingly endless bends. Several sand mines can be found along the riverbanks of Trisuli. There's a light blue colored stop en route to Pokhara. According to Raju, the light blue stop is the best stop along the highway. It's really modest but it's kind of cozy there. I love sipping tea at this stop. Many tour buses and vans stop here.
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Trisuli River of Nepal |
While traveling on the Tribhuvan highway heading to Pokhara, I dozed off for some while in the car and I dream of my late father. In the dream, the Volkswagen driver drives into a tunnel and we come across a group of people halting by a corner in the tunnel. The Volkswagen comes to a halt and I join the crowd to see what is going on. A man is badly injured, losing a lot of blood yet he appears to be calm and he is so assured that he is going to follow the light. It seems to me that he's dying. He claims that he just got to follow the light.
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| Hills adorning Tribhuvan Highway |
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| A glimpse of Tribhuvan Highway |
I ask him what kind of light is he talking about. He points to a direction and in the spur of a moment, I see my father among the crowd, shimmering with blinding white light with a slight bluish and yellow tinge, and he waves to me. I'm flabbergasted and I call out to him at the top of my voice. He smiles at me and that's the end of it. I kind of miss him all my life. To catch a glimpse of him even in a dream means a lot to me. When I was in the holly land of Mecca, I had an unforgettable and intriguing vivid glimpse of my late father.
I'm overcome with joy when I reach Pokhara, I'm really awed by the captivating sightings of snow capped mountains from a close range. I'm blown away by the sightings! Annapurna range is visible from Pokhara, the second biggest city in Nepal. Here I am at last, I come all the way despite being ill to see Annapurna.
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Reaching Pokhara |
When I reach Pokhara, I remember the souvenir trader at the lobby of Hotel Himalaya in Lalitpur. During my stay in Hotel Himalaya back in June, a souvenir trader at the lobby of the hotel gave me a postcard of Pokhara and he wished that I got to go the lovely mountainous spot. The generous trader gave me a bag of Nepali tea and a postcard of Mount Everest as well. Thank you, Sir. I'm so happy and thankful that I get to go to Pokhara six months later. Much sooner than I thought. I wish I could tell the generous trader I get to go to Pokhara for real.
Pokhara is undeniably enchanting, blissfully surrounded by the looming snow capped mountains and amazing lakes. Pokhara means "Valley of the Lakes". Apart from Lake Phewa, there are seven other lakes in Pokhara. Lake Begnas and Lake Rupa are also worth visiting. Nepal's second international airport is located in Pokhara.
We stay in Atithi Resort and Spa during our stay in Pokhara, it is really an enjoyable stay. We are greeted with a nice light beige cloth like garlands by the amicable hotel staff. Atithi is nestled among a village with colorful houses. Mount Machhapuchhre ( the Fish tail mountain ) and Annapurna South are visible from this cozy resort. It makes the stay even more worthwhile.
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| Mount Machhapuchhre as seen from Atithi Resort |
Mount Machhapuchhre has a distinct and recognizable peak, even though it has lower elevation compared to other neighbouring mountains. Standing at the height of 6,993 meters, its unique summit is akin to a tail of a fish and Machhapuchhre does looks like Matterhorn in Switzerland. Matterhorn in Switzerland (4,478 meters ) is one of the famous mountain in the world; it is celebrated as an iconic emblem of the Alps.
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| The lovely Annapurna range in Pokhara |
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| A glimpse of Atithi Resort & Spa |
Machhapuchhre means Fish tail. It's indeed a real mouthful to pronounce it's name. Nobody has ever set foot on its summit, it is deemed as sacred. However back in 1957, Jimmy Roberts, Cuthbert Wilfrid Frances Noyce (an author) and A.D.M. Cox climbed Machhapuchhre up to a certain height even though they didn't climb all the way to the top. The climbers did so as a token of respect for the local beliefs. The peak of Machhapuchhre is off limits to climbers, even until now. Mount Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South (Mount Hiunchuli, an extension of Annapurna South) are clearly visible from Pokhara.
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| A house nearby Atithi Resort in Pokhara |
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| One December eve in Lake Phewa |
Many Gurkha soldiers can be found in Pokhara. There are quite a number of cute three storied and colorful houses around. I enjoy strolling at the nearby scenic village. Some village folks lit bonfires to keep themselves warm. While looking around at a sundry shop, I come across a man who is oddly attired (at a tourist spot), he is wearing a blazer with a white shirt and black trouser. He just arrived with a briefcase. After ending his chatting on the phone, his eyes are fixed on the surrounding mountain and suddenly he exclaims aloud, "My God, the mountains are so beautiful!". I say to him "Indeed Sir, no doubt about it." "Have great days in Pokhara, miss" he says to me with a warm smile before parting his way.
I indeed have great time in Pokhara. I bask with delight in the tranquility and beauty of Lake Phewa and it's surround. Being near the mountain makes me feel energized. At the main road adjacent to Lake Phewa, folks are gearing up for the New Year celebration festival. Festive mood is in the air. While boating on Lake Phewa, with a mesmerizing background view of the mountains, there's a group of people on the neighboring boat singing to a popular Hindi songs that I used to hear when I was little. My mom loves to listen to Hindi songs. I remember the song that I heard being sung on Lake Phewa, the melody of the song is very lovely and melancholic.
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| Boating in Lake Phewa, Pokhara |
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| Lake Phewa with mountainous background |
There's a musician playing Sarangi at the lake too. Sarangi is a fiddle like, Nepalese four strings musical instrument. Sarangi used to be played by folks of Gandarva ( Gaine ) caste. The folks of Gandarva in Nepal are known to be the singing storytellers. Once, they travelled from village to village, singing just about everything. They provided a source of entertainment and information, especially to the wealthy. These days, the Sarangi players roams the tourist spot such as Pokhara and Thamel to eke out a living. I bump into Sarangi players in Thamel too.
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| The early hours of the day before dawn in Sarangkot |
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| The breaking of dawn as seen from Sarangkot, Pokhara |
On the onset of dawn, the tips of the mountains will turn reddish. At first, I don't have pleasant viewing with the maddening crowd on top of the souvenir shop with a deck for mountain viewing in Sarangkot. I had quite a disappointing experience at first, almost knocked down by a ruthless tourist while descending the spiral staircase affixed to the viewing deck of the shop. The incident is so unpleasant, spoiling my excitement and I thought I have lost a great chance to have a spectacular view of sunrise with a mountainous background. There's no way I can snap nice pics from that place. I don't want to go home empty handed either, especially after the defying the odds to come all the way here.
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| Hazimin & I n the mountains of Himalayas |
While some selfish tourists so eager to take countless selfies and pics of the mountains, I had to move away to avoid further unpleasant commotion. Raju eventually shows a spot not far from the packed viewing place. The lone spot has a makeshift wooden table, chair and umbrella like shade. It turns out to be just the perfect spot, much to my amazement. It's away from the maddening crowd and surprisingly I really get a great view of Machhapuchhre and some other mountains, Annapurna South, Annapurna III, Annapurna V and Annapurna I. A perfect spot with a table, a chair and unexpectedly a great view of the mountains. Though the spot is on a slightly lower elevation than the viewing deck, it has a much better view. I can afford to smile again and I tell the mountains I come here in peace, I want to capture their mystifying beauty and pen my tribute.
There's an interesting spot in Pokhara known as Davis Fall. The waterfall is named after a Swiss tourist who was swept away by the swift current and sadly enough, his body was never recovered. A unique thing about this waterfall is its underground tunnel. The flowing water will disappear in an underground tunnel that is 500 feet long, after reaching the ground. Davis Fall is also known as Patale Chango, which bears the meaning of "underworld waterfall". Phewa Lake damn is the source of this unique kind of waterfall.
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| A garden in Davis Fall |
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| Davis Fall of Pokhara |
After the visit to Davis Fall, we set our foot to the nearby Tashiling Tibetan Refugee Camp in Chhore Patan, with the altitude of 3000 feet above sea level. This settlement seems to be well kept and the folks here are friendly.
In the past years, the Tashiling Tibetan Refugees Settlement used to be a temporary camp that sheltered Tibetan refugees who came all the way to Pokhara from Tibet. During 1957 to 1962, there was a war between Tibet and China. The Dalai Lama fled to India and around 10,000 Tibetan came to Pokhara.
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| A peek of the waterfall in Pokhara |
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| Track and field of the Tibetan Refugee Camp |
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A road leading to Tibetan Settlement in Pokhara  |
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| The little carpet that I've bought from Tibetan Handicraft Centre |
Raju shows us a mosque in Pokhara while we are heading back to Kathmandu. It's a nice and heart warming sighting for me. It's really hard to say good bye to the lovely Pokhara. This second largest city in Nepal is such a haunting beauty. I would like to take this opportunity here to thank the virtuous driver who drives us more than 500 kilometers in six days in the Volkswagen. My sincere kudos to him, the Nepali Volkswagen driver. Volkswagen is indeed The Das Auto for me in the rough, challenging terrains of diverse Nepal landscape. Love the car. When I was little, I was ferried to school on a white Volkswagen van, while I was staying in the heart of Kuala Lumpur.
When we reach Kathmandu again after departing from Pokhara, we learn about the ill fated flight of AirAsia QZ 8501 piloted by Captain Irianto while watching CNN from Shambala Hotel. Our deepest condolences to those affected by the tragedy.
Before heading back home on 29 December, we visit Boudhanath, Patan and Thamel that very day. Hundreds of pigeons liven up the peaceful and colourful Boudhanath with its presence. Boudhanath bears the meaning of "God of Wisdom". This sacred site reverberates with a universal peace vibes. Boudhanath Stupa is also known as Khasti Chaitya, which means "The Dewdrop Stupa". According to a Newari legend, it is believed that during the construction of the Stupa, there was a spell of drought and the workmen had to collect the morning dew to expedite the construction. They collected the morning dew by laying out white cotton cloth which was then wrung out to extract the water from the dew.
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| The paved alley that leads to Boudhanath |
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| A glimpse of the Boudanath Stupa |
The distraught reigning king from Licchavi dynasty ( 4 th century AD ) consulted his astrologers and was told that in order to dispel the drought spell, the most virtuous man in the kingdom needed to be sacrificed. They were in dire need of rain. Eventually, the King known as King Dharmadeva decided that it was either himself or his son who was worthy enough to be sacrificed. The king ordered his son to decapitate a man in a shrouded form with one stroke. The man in the shrouded white guise would be found lying in the palace at that particular night. The prince obeyed his father's order and was really shocked to know that the man in the shrouded guise that he decapitated was his own
father. The prince known as Manadeva gained insight later on that he needed to let a cock fly and build a Stupa for his father at the spot where the cock landed. The cock landed at Boudhanath and King Manadeva built a Stupa there.
Tibetan folks can be found in this world heritage site as well. While in Boudhanath, I visit Kanchan's shop that sells shawls and ornaments. Kanchan was my former tour guide. Raju takes us to stroll on top of the enormous mandala of the stupa, and I simply love the view from here. I don't get to do that previously.
The Durbar Square of Patan is a world heritage site situated in Lalitpur. Lalitpur is known as the City of Fine Arts. I have never set my foot in Patan before this. In Patan there are shops selling exquisite looking singing bowl. There are many dwarika, or antique carvings as well. Patan is an artsy city. The atmosphere in Patan is different from the Durbar Square of Kathmandu, nor Bakhtaphur, though on the surface those heritage sites seems to look more or less quite the same. Patan does not have a touch of urban vibe as in Durbar Square of Kathmandu. It's a classical city and I just couldn't help wondering how the princes and princesses of Patan look like, surrounded by the courtiers, leisurely walking in their artsy courtyard.....
I get to see the golden temple in Patan which is a Buddhist monastery. There's a community of goldsmith in Patan as well. The goldsmiths in Patan used to trade gold sands with Tibet.
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| A view near the Museum of Durbar Square of Patan |
Austrians helped out in restoring some structures of Patan Durbar Square after it was damaged as a result of the earthquake back in 1934.
I get a splendid view of Patan Durbar Square from the rooftop of Si Taleju Restaurant. Raju brings us there. Get to watch eagles flying by too. I'm enjoying every moment of it, the pleasant bearable coldness, the right kind of cold, the brilliantly bright sky, the right kind of view, this rare feeling that there's nothing to worry about, just savoring the lovely moment. Some kind of Utopia.....
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| The Durbar Square of Patan |
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| The display of the original structure of the pillar in Durbar Square of Patan prior to the earthquake in 1934 |
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| An ancient monument gilded with gold |
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| A scene from a monastery in Patan |
I'm really looking forward to go to Thamel before heading home, to look for some keepsakes. Many Pulsar bikes roaming the narrow and congested streets of Thamel. I'm a no stranger to the hustle bustle of the city, Kathmandu to me is a different kind of city. Kathmandu intrigues me. It can be hectic yet it can be laid back at the same time.
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| A street in Thamel, Kathmandu |
We sample freshly brewed assortment of flavored tea at Raju's friend's shop. I would like to buy saffron from the shop, but I don't have much to spend. Saffron is a pricey spice. While sightseeing in Thamel, my right shoes is torn, it must be worn out, have done a great deal of walking with it. I get myself a pair of shoes known as Mountain Creek. I'm lucky that the owner give me a further discount though it is a best buy purchase. I get a new, crease free rupee note with an image of deer on it from the shop owner. It is a great keepsake for me. I never know when will I ever come here again.
I have an important personal mission to accomplish on the morning of 29 December 2014 : The Mountain Flight, a chance to view Mount Everest with my own eyes. I get up as early as 3 a.m., say my prayers and have solitary moments thinking of whether I make it back home from the mission alive. It's a moment in a lifetime that I want to seize, I'm determine to see Mount Everest, so I'll hop on Buddha Air that will ferry me to hover across the Himalayan range, without Hazimin. Despite the nervousness, I keep telling myself I'm just hours away before I get to see Mount Everest, the most celebrated peak on earth and the fabulous Himalayan range. I've been wanting to be near Mount Everest the moment I get to know about the story of Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzig Norgay conquered the tallest peak on earth from a textbook, when I was 10. Datuk M. Magendran, Datuk N. Mohandas, Muhamad Muqharabbin Mokhtaruddin, Ahmad Reduan Rozali and Marina Ahmad are the amazingly plucky Malaysians who have made it to the top of Mount Everest.
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| 4 a.m. in Kathmandu getting ready to go for mountain flight |
Tribhuvan airport is surprisingly freezing cold for me, on the early morning of 29 December 2014, the kind of coldness that chills the bone. I'm all by myself then, shivering from time to time. I don't like to wear gloves but I really have no choice, my hands feel so numb. I put on a pair of maroon gloves that I buy from Pokhara. I really feel that the early morning in Tribhuvan airport is much colder than in Sarangkot, Pokhara. While waiting for my flight, from time to time I hear about the the announcements about flights to Lukla. There's a Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, and it is known as the most dangerous and the scariest airport in the world. I wish that one day I get to experience taking off and touchdown at Lukla, with the airstrip that is about 9,000 feet in the sky. It's going to be a great adventure. The airport in Lukla has a very short and steep airstrip and hazardous weather are known to complicate matters.
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| At The Tribhuban Airport Waiting For Buddha Air Flight No.200 |
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| The plane that takes me to Himalaya |
I'm seated on the front most left passengers side of the Buddha Air plane, near the propeller. I forget to bring my Hewlett Packard camera charger, much to my disappointment, it's accidentally left behind, so I just have to make use of my camera phone. I've bought a yellow malfunctioned disposal camera too. All these shortcomings are indeed not welcomed at all to celebrate a historic trip of a lifetime, but life is like that sometimes. Just got to make do with what we have. Though my hand is numb from coldness, I have to remove the glove or else the phone wouldn't be responsive to touch. From time to time, the nice stewardess mentions the names of the mountains points to its directions. Some of them are Langtang, Dorje Lakpa, Gauri Shankar, Choba Bamre, Nuptse and Lhotse.
I can't believe my luck when I'm invited to snap pics from the cockpit. It is really a great honour for me. At first, I can't figure it out it why some people come to my further front. I'm among the front most seat passengers. It takes me a while to realize some people are heading to the cockpit. In the state of joy and confusion, a stewardess asks me whether I want to get into the cockpit. That's a million dollar invite to me! TQVM!! I get such a splendid, and unforgettable view of Himalaya and Mount Everest.
It is indeed an indescribable happiness and contentment hovering on the roof of the world. Droplets of teary joy brimming in my eyes ..... I'm really thankful to be given the opportunity to view the tallest peak on earth with my own set of eyes. When my plane lands safely in Tribhuvan airport, I feel like I want to kiss the ground and utter my thankfulness to God. I utter it in my heart repeatedly!
While I'm finishing my latest blog entry, I learn from the news about a missing fellow Malaysian known as Dennis Lee Thian Poh who went missing on April 5 till now while trekking in Pokhara-Mustang route. I pray that he will be rescued.
Just recently, ( Saturday, Apr 26 2015 ) a massive earthquake struck Nepal and destroyed some heritage buildings and monuments. Thousands of people died and many Nepalis became homeless. I wish that international aids keep pouring in for Nepal. I'm glad that I took many pictures of all the Durbar Squares which some parts of it are now reduced to rubble due to the violent force of the earthquake.
As a traveler, I'm touched by the kindness and friendliness of the people of Nepal. It is really sad and shocking to see the pics of the aftermath of the quake.
I pen this piece as tribute to the mountain range that I'm so smitten with.....
ODE TO HIMALAYA
Regally towering against the sky
The glorious abode of the snow
Fabulous tips reaching out to heaven
Silently calling out to the daring souls
To the land of the spiritual abode
Happiness is encrusted within
Hidden gems worth more than gold
I hover on the Roof of the World
One chilly morning of December 2014
I'm utterly glad
My June wishes in Nagarkot come true
Into the cockpit I step in
Witnessing the most lovely sight I've seen
I'm really awed and moved
The splash of the bluest sky
Snowy cloudlets sailing by
Splendid arrays of snow capped peaks
Like a silvery giant dragon of a great length
Resting on an endless ridge
Such astounding nature's masterpiece
Forever embed and etched in my soul
My soul smiles and aglows
A poem by Noraisyah Bahrim a.k.a. Janeiro Star
Author or Rainchild & The River of Kings, Partridge Publishing
Participated in Los Angeles Times Festival of Books 2014 ( Indie Books )
Photography is my great passion too
Participated in Los Angeles Times Festival of Books 2014 ( Indie Books )
Photography is my great passion too
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